Thursday, May 3, 2012

A Tale of Two Cities

So, where are you from?

When people ask me this question, I stutter and freeze up a bit. I usually give a pretty long answer. Sometimes I get emotional.

Over the weekend my husband and I were visiting with his family in Katy, Texas, a suburb of Houston. Andrew's uncle Jim is Canadian, and despite living in Houston for over 20 years, said he will always identify as a Canadian. His two children Sheila and Daniel grew up in Katy, went to UT at Austin, and now move all over the world. We speculated on what Sheila and Daniel identify as: Austinites? Houstonians? Texans? Generic urbanities or former suburbanites?

This brought up a larger personal question for me: What do I identify as?

The answer is complicated. I am a Houstonian/Pittsburgh ex-pat. I live in Houston and have embraced it in many ways, but I still strongly identify with and miss Pittsburgh. There are days I miss Pittsburgh so badly, I dream about rivers (real rivers, not bayous) and bridges (not highway entrance ramps) and snow (not in the form of Tampico slushies). I watch Pittsburgh Dad videos and laugh by myself because no one else here gets it. I forced my group of Houston friends to eat Halupki. During Steeler home games, I comment loudly to everyone at the bar how beautiful Pittsburgh is and how awesome/terrible the Steelers are. No fries here are as good as O fries, and do not even get me started on pizza in Houston. There are days where I would literally stab someone for some Mineo's or a late night Antoon's run. And most importantly, my entire family is in Pittsburgh.

I left Pittsburgh because I had an amazing job opportunity in Houston, thinking I would only be here a few years. And don't get me wrong, I wanted a break from Pittsburgh. I was tired of the weather, the college hangouts, the stale politics. But before I knew it, I was getting married in Houston, my career was moving up quickly, and we were buying a condo. In a blink of an eye, seven years flew by.

I recently watched "My Tale of Two Cities" which is a documentary about returning to Pittsburgh, filmed by Carl Kurlander. After living in LA for years, he decides to return to Pittsburgh to raise his daughter and support the "comeback" of the city. He struggles emotionally and financially as he tries to make sense of the future of the city and of his life there. I bawled at the end scene, feeling like the whole movie so accurately portrayed the emotions of so many of us ex-pats.

To me, Pittsburgh is like an ex-lover, one that you broke up with for all the right reasons but just can't quite get over.

My life in my other city, Houston, is great. I own a home, have a flourishing career and secure job, and am able to live a very comfortable life. I've met people from all over the world, tried all kinds of new food and activities, and have felt welcome from the moment I arrived. My friends here are some of the most amazing and wonderful people I have ever met. My earlier posts are all authentic reflections on how much I have grown to love this city. There are many, many transplants here (like my husband) who now identify with this city more than where they grew up.

Houston is great on paper. Houston makes sense.

So where does that leave me? Will I be a Houstonian forever pining for Pittsburgh? Is there ever a point where you "get over" your hometown, or your desire to return to it? Can you ever really go back?




Monday, March 26, 2012

Frustration on the Homefront

One of the amazing perks about living in Houston is the easy ability to buy affordable and great housing inside the city. Yes, you can move out to the suburbs and purchase giant new homes in gated communities, but you can also choose to live in the loop to have easier access to city life. As Houstonians are looking to shorten their commutes, take advantage of public transportation, enjoy inner loop dining and entertainment, and send their kids to some great public schools, life inside the loop is becoming an increasingly attractive option. Young people, retirees, young families, and urbanities are all moving to different areas inside the 610 loop.

I currently live in an awesome EaDo condo, right next to lots of restaurants and nightlife. We can actually walk to places, including downtown, which is pretty exciting in Houston. Our place is a former warehouse, so it has been beautifully reconstructed with a beautiful modern kitchen and bath I can't imagine life without. But now, as we are looking to grow our family, a one bedroom condo next to a live music venue and multiple bars really isn't going to work. We have been on a search that has lasted quite a few months, and are hopefully narrowing our options down.

My obsession as of late has been HAR.com. This is the fastest and easiest way to to search Houston real estate. I may have wasted a few good hours on this website, hours which could have been spent writing a couple of novels, solving the energy crisis, or figuring out the meaning of life. But instead I have spent lots of time comparing 3 to 4 bedroom houses, estimating the cost to install central AC, and inspecting photos for the deatils of "original" hardwoods and the like. I know have a fountain of knowledge for anyone looking to buy and live in the loop, but unfortunately none of it is helping us find a house.

Granted, we've only been at this for 3 months or so. We're priced out of the Heights and Montrose, so we've seen dozens of places in the East End, Idylwood, Museum District, and Riverside Terrace. It seems like Andrew and I can't see eye-to-eye on things, and there's always a huge compromise for one of us thus negating the option. I am OK with doing some updating, while Andrew wants things done and easy. I like little hobbit houses, and Andrew wants lots of space. I like historic places brimming with character, and Andrew likes clean, modern looks. We have yet to find the "perfect" place, the one you walk into and sigh and say, "This is our home!"

Now, if we were to move to Clear Lake, Westbury, Memorial, Spring Branch, etc...we would be able to find a wonderful place that meets all our requirements. I now get why people move to the suburbs; it's just so much easier! Especially when you factor future children into the picture, it really becomes a great option.

Fortunately, one thing we do see eye-to-eye on is our commitment to stay inside the loop. This will keep Andrew's commute at 5 -10 minutes max, potentially with him even riding the light rail to work. I will be working in the city probably for the remainder of the time we live here, so a good central location is key. We want our future children to grow up in diverse and culturally-rich neighborhood while attending great schools, museums, and festivals. We both want to support Houston as the inner loop grows and develops to become the quirky, urban, and diverse city that it is.

Now if only we could find our house. Oh, perfect inner loop house, I know you are out there!

Wednesday, February 22, 2012

Haters Gonna Hate

I know all about being a hater.

I grew up in a small town in western PA. My friends and I were always hating it for being too darn small, suffocating in the way that you couldn't do anything without everyone knowing your business. I visited New York City for the first time in high school and longed to live right in the middle of Times Square, mostly because it was the total opposite of Charleroi.

Living in Pittsburgh for five years, I was surrounded by haters. The snow was too dirty, the taxes too high, the politicians too incompetent, the public transportation too unreliable, the jobs to few and far in between.  My last year there, I felt the rivers closing in on me- I HAD to get out.

Then I moved to Houston. I worked summer school with a bunch of people that were only in Houston for the summer, and they put all the other haters I knew to shame. They had a list of complaints,  and loved to run through them everyday on our commute. I knew I was going to remain in Houston long after they left, and I was already starting to wish I was leaving with them.

I've lived in Houston for seven years for now, and for about seven years have experienced bouts of strong and mild planning to leave. I've interviewed for jobs in other cities, researched costs of living, looked at real estate, grad programs, etc. Every time I would travel for work, I would fantasize about living in that other city. Life would be so much more awesome if I worked at a vineyard in Napa, a non-profit in LA, a school in Brooklyn, a government job in Pittsburgh, a policy job in DC, etc etc etc.

Then, a few months ago, it dawned on me: I was a hater. I've essentially hated everywhere I've lived. It was time for a change, and not in a city, but in me.

I've already changed my feelings on Charleroi; it's amazingly beautiful, unique, and has the best pizza places in the world. I had some amazing friends and adults in my life that had a huge influence on who I have become, and am grateful for having them in my life.

I think part of me will always be a bit desperately homesick for Pittsburgh. Every time I go back I must eat my delicious Italian food in Bloomfield or take in the scenic views on Mt. Washington, or even have a beer at Gene's. I see some of the amazing things that are happening there, like my friend Brett's OnlyinPgh project, and it makes me really want to jump back home and be a part of it all. But, as I learned awhile ago, Pittsburgh is not a center for education reform, and has very little opportunities for me there now.

That brings me to Houston. Now, I believe to truly love something, you must embrace the hate. Pick whatever you most hate about someone/something, and find the positive, make it work. Now, let's address the three most common complaints about Houston:

1) The weather

It gets stupid hot and humid in the summer. The positives of this:
     a) It's not like snow and ice. Driving in the heat is not dangerous.
     b) You can still go outdoors, especially in swimming pool, to the beach, or out at night.
     c) Your skin is never, ever dry.

Yes, I know it's not perfect California weather, but I'm not ever going to be able to afford to live in CA on an educator's salary, so here I am. Also, no one was complaining about the weather today in Houston. It's February 22nd, sunny and 72. Its like this for a lot of Jan, Feb, and March. And through most of the fall. So shut up.

2) The traffic

It sucks. BUT there are a lot of great initiatives like the expansion of the rail line that will help make the city have more alternate transportation systems. So, instead of just sitting around and complaining about not having reliable transportation, Houston is doing something about it!

3) The sprawl


In certain areas, Houston can look like one giant shopping center that just never ends. And even though there is a ton of sprawl, the closer you live to downtown the less likely you are to see it. There are beautiful historic neighborhoods, homes, skyscrapers, etc. Besides, the sprawl isn't all bad; although it's not the prettiest to look at, it's a sign that the city is growing, and fast. It's better than closed down storefronts.

Haters gonna hate, Houston, but I am no longer a hater. You have achieved the goal many have in relationships; you've changed me for the better.


Wednesday, February 15, 2012

Houston: The Best Angle of the Triangle

When I first moved to Texas, I quickly discovered that Austin, San Antonio, and Houston form a triangle-ish shape. It takes anywhere from one hour from three hours to get from one city to the next, making for fun weekend excursions.

Pretty soon, I knew the reputation of each city: Austin is where you go to play on 6th street and eat creative, inventive, and award-winning food that's fairly accessible in price.  San Antonio is where you go to eat Tex-Mex, soak in some great history, and just be a tourist. Houston is the city where you have to go to work, and perhaps a stop on the drive to the beach at Galveston. 

Now, initially, I was enthralled by Austin and San Antonio. As a vegetarian, Austin seemed to have unlimited options that were not just some veggies or pasta thrown together, but actual thought-out dishes. I could even order something Vegan if I wanted to go really go all out, even at the same place as Andrew could order a steak. The hippie in me lived the laid back vibe of Austin, and for being a fairly "urban" city, the outdoors are extremely accessible and gorgeous to boot. 

San Antonio is also captivating. The architecture, the history, and the beauty of the buildings and homes, and the Riverwalk are easy to swoon over. People are friendly, and the downtown part of the city is very walkable and accessible. The Tex-Mex is absolutely fantastic, the pace is nice and slow, and you can drink and listen to Jazz on the Riverwalk. 

Then you come to Houston. Houston is giant in comparison to the other two, and surrounded by what locals call the "Spaghetti bowl" of highways. 



Now, I'm not going to lie. I cried the first time I had to drive on the spaghetti noodles. I was 22 and in the Hobby airport parking lot. I called my mom, who very calmly told me to just take it one step at a time, just put the car in reverse and drive out of the parking lot. 

After spending seven years in Houston and making semi-plans to move to Austin or San Antonio or random other city, I've realized that Houston is the best in the triangle for many + reasons. 

+ The diversity. Sorry other cities, but you just can't compete. I've already talked about this in earlier posts, but it really is a great factor for Houston. I love interacting with people from all over the world and from all different ethnic backgrounds on a daily basis. San Antonio has a rich Hispanic tradition, and Austin does attract people from all over the world with the University of Texas. However, our sprawling Chinatown, the El Salvadorian, Jamaican, Mexican restaurants all in one block in the Southwest, the restored Bungalows of the Heights, Frenchy's Chicken by the University of Houston, Pappadeaux's, and even the random Polish restaurant on I-10 make Houston the most diverse and international city of the three. 

+ Food. Yes, I know Austin is "foodie" central, but there are great restaurants, farmer's markets, bars, celebrity chefs, etc here in Houston. My favorite places sell $2.50 Vietnamese tofu sandwiches and $1 breakfast tacos.  I like cheap, good food, and Houston has a ton of it! If you want the fancy chef of the month featured in the New York Times, you can get that. If you want the I've-worked-from-7-7-and-I just-want-to-eat-an-amazing-burrito-and-pass-out dinner, we've got that too. 

+ The Pace. We have more jobs, and we are very serious about careers. In Austin and in San Antonio, the vibe seems just so laid back. I like a faster pace. I've grown to enjoy the busy highways, the hustle and bustle of a major city. It's like the streets of NYC, but in cars and on highways. There are efforts to create more public transit, and this would be a huge bonus (and this is something that all three cities need much more of!)  

+ Professional Sports. We have professional basketball, baseball, soccer, and football. Even though I am a diehard black and gold Pittsburgh fan, I enjoy attending professional sporting events, and can root for the Houston Dynamo MLS team guilt-free. Andrew is a forever loyal Cubs fan (I know, pity him) and just in general loves baseball, so he routinely walks to cheap Astros games from our condo. We can even watch minor league hockey, and although it's not watching the Pens and Sidney Crosby, I can actually get tickets and afford to go to the Houston Aeros games. 

+ We are bigger, and you know in Texas, that means everything. 

I will concede many victories to the other cities. San Antonio, you are the prettiest and most attractive, the beauty queen. Austin, you are the coolest, the guy in class who listens to music you wish you'd heard of. But Houston, it's clear we are two of a kind; awkward, slightly overwhelmed with life, but doing pretty well and and trying to form a unique identity.

I will stay loyal to you Houston, as long as you let me see San Antonio and Austin on the occasional weekends. 

Wednesday, February 8, 2012

The Allure of the East End

Readers, beware. This will be the first of many posts that describe with my flirtings in the East End of Houston.

Now technically, I now live in Eado, i.e. East Downtown. So this is one of those awesome things about living as an educator in your 20's in Houston; you can actually live and own a downtownish condo, where in many cities CEOs and lawyers and stockbrokers fight to rent 500 sqft apartments.

Since we moved to EaDo nearly five years ago, this area has boomed. It used to be just us, some sketchy warehouses, and the punks from the Insane Clown Posse show at Warehouse Live. Now we are surrounded by restaurants, a sports pub, a wine bar, and within a 10 minute walking distance to the already almost famous Discovery Green park and the new Phoenicia. I can actually ride my bike to Phoenicia and get groceries, which makes me nearly fall over with delight every time I make the trip. For those of you more veteran and hardcore Houstonians, you know what a big deal this is, in a city where it generally takes 15 minutes to get anywhere by car.

But alas, our lovely condo was a great place for our early 20s, but now as we are moving into the next decade of life, we're not as concerned with bars or rooftop parties. We are now looking to move into a house that will eventually be filled with some children. Preferably a historic house in a great neighborhood. And of course, inside the loop. What has made me fall for Houston is the affordable and lively city life, so there is no way I am giving that up. So I have set my sights on the East End.

The East End is the next hot area of inner loop real estate, and tons of development projects are already underway, including....wait for it...wait for it....public transit! You will actually be able to take the light rail from the East End to either downtown or the University of Houston area. If we lived in the East End, my husband would never have to drive, and I would hate him for all 30 minutes I'm usually stuck in traffic on the way home.

One of the strongest things about the East End and probably the biggest perk is the sense of community. I learned that tonight when I attended the first steering committee meeting for the East End Food Co-op. About 20 people gathered to discuss the mission and vision for a new food cooperative, and everyone from laywers to PTO members to politicians to retirees contributed to the initial conversations about what the neighborhood needs. I left the meeting with new friends and invitations to local community events, and was surprised at how just darn happy I was to be getting in on the ground stage of such an awesome movement. In Pittsburgh, I was always involved in local politics and activist movements. I had been disconnected from that in Houston, which allowed me to continue to keep up barriers and avoid getting too attached, or even worse, invested in the city. The more connected I am here, the harder it will be to leave.

So sorry Houston, it really was about me and my issues, and I did shut you out. I'll try harder to open up to you. I promise.



Saturday, January 28, 2012

Lunar New Year Celebration

Growing up in Western PA, Chinese New Year was not exactly a giant celebration. Chinese culture, and non-western European cultures in general, were not focused on during my K-12 education. When my world history teacher "covered" a unit on China, she gave us a giant packet of questions we had to look up in our textbook. She said that we weren't going to have to have a test on it because the names were just "too hard to pronounce and memorize."

In fact, I did not know really much at all about Chinese New Years until moving to Houston, and specifically learning quite a lot when I started working in the Sharpstown area. My school is next to the new Chinatown, a booming area of Houston at Beltway 8 and Bellaire. Chinatown used to be in the downtown area, but like most things and people in Houston, it moved outside the loop, and now looks something like this:


This Asian population of Houston is around 6% of the population, and is growing leaps and bounds every year. More than one in five foreign-born Houstonians — an estimated 318,284 persons — were born in Asia.  My school specifically focuses on teaching Mandarin Chinese and culture, and we have one of the strongest Chinese language programs in the Houston area. For many of my students, Chinese will be their third language, as they are already fluent in English and Spanish. I have loved learning about Chinese culture with my students, and excited for the opportunities it will provide them in the future. 


One of such aforementioned great opportunities was today. I was working late at Saturday school this morning, and I could feel my stomach growling. I couldn't stop watching the clock, knowing that in just a few hours I would be stuffing my face with the most delicious fried Tofu, noodles and enjoying a Taiwanese tapioca tea. Why? Lunar New Years!



The Chinese Lunar New Year celebration at Houston's Chinese Community Center is one of the largest and most exciting events of the year in Houston as it combines two of it's best assets: diversity and food. Thousands of Houstonians trek to the southwest side of town to enjoy a day of food, performances, and shopping.



In the four years that I've been attending, the crowd seems to get larger and more diverse. Our school preforms every year, and the crowd loves it as our band of Hispanic students performs traditional Chinese songs with a rock twist. I also cheered for my friend's daughter Alexandria perform the Lion Mask dance and the  Lantern Dance.




The CCC programming includes all of the traditional and modern favorites from all over Asia, as well as a Mariachi band and an El Salvadorian performance. I spent awhile talking to a student of mine, Rosa, who is part Vietnamese, part Hispanic, and has studied Korean at the CCC. She is now studying Chinese at out school, so it will be her 5th language. She, like many others in Houston are a blend of interesting cultures and backgrounds. Talking to Rosa and being at the festival made me extremely appreciative of my own path and experiences, and to live in a city where I can learn so much about the world without actually leaving.

Wednesday, January 25, 2012

My Torrid Affair with Houston

One day seven years ago, I loaded up my Kia with all my belongings and drove the 24 hours from Pittsburgh to Houston. I had the great misfortune of moving to Houston in June, which meant I was essentially covered in sweat for the entire first three months I lived here. I cried the first time I had to drive on one of the seven lane highways, and scoffed at the Darque Tan billboards posted everywhere. I mean, why were people fake tanning in a city where there is constant sunshine?

Needless to say, this was not love at first sight. Houston did not have me at hello, nor did I know immediately that Houston was "the one." I couldn't get used to the fact that I had to drive 20 minutes to get just about anywhere, and I desperately missed the changing of seasons, Steeler football, and my family and friends.

But now, seven years later, I am beginning to come to terms with the fact that Houston may be home now. My husband and I have great careers here, and the opportunities and comforts of live are quite endless. I have decided to use this blog as a way to bring my affair out from a dark corner at Marfreless and into the light. Yes Houston, I do love you. There, I said it, in public.

For anyone relocating to Houston or thinking about it, here are my top three reasons for loving this city:

1) The food. This is hands down the best reason to be in Houston. There is an abundance of great, creative, and affordable restaurants. I am sure when you think Houston, you think BBQ and Tex-Mex. While there are plenty of these places, they are by no means the majority of restaurants here. There are MANY options for Indian, Thai, and Vietnamese food, and our Chinatown has blocks and blocks of unique and authentic options. We have award winning chefs like Monica Pope that are working to build Houston into the culinary capital of the south.  I am a vegetarian, my husband is a devoted meat eater, and we find plenty of options that work for both of us.

2) The sheer amount of things to do. There are so many museums, galleries, parks, events, parades, festivals, etc that you will absolutely never be bored. From visiting the Menil to ice skating at Discovery Green to shopping at Farmer's Market or seeing a movie at Sundance Movie Theater, there really never is a reason to stay home and complain of nothing to do. A lot of events are free or very low in cost, like my favorite free event in Houston, a Beatles cover band at the Continental Club on Thursday nights, which leads me to my next point...

3) It's extremely affordable and diverse. You get to enjoy all the food, music, museums, and events of a large city for the cost of a small city. My husband and I, who are both educators, live a few blocks from downtown and have a very urban lifestyle that we could never afford in most major cities. People from all over the world come to Houston because of the strong economic growth here. I often hear Spanish, Chinese, Vietnamese, and Arabic spoken at my downtown grocery store. The city is vibrant and growing, and when you live here you are a part of it.

So there, I love you Houston, and am looking forward to taking our relationship to the next level.